Michael Grahamslaw finds the perfect way to round off the weekend in the heart of Newcastle.
Being an avowed lover of both traditional Sunday Lunch and Indian cuisine, I had thought never the twain shall meet. However, as is my most irritating wont, I was once again proved wrong.
The Indian street food pioneers Dabbawal have reimagined the British classic, bringing their inventive ‘Dabba Sunday Roast’ first to its Jesmond restaurant and now, its similarly crowd-pleasing outpost on Newcastle’s High Bridge Street.
Positioned a mere two minutes from Monument Metro, it’s perfectly placed for shoppers, families and visitors looking for a relaxed Sunday afternoon in Newcastle city centre.
Speaking ahead of the launch of this brandnew concept, the Dabbawal team said: “After the huge success of The Dabba Sunday Roast in Jesmond, we felt the city centre deserved something new.
“Roast dinners are a real institution in the UK, and Indian food is right up there as one of Newcastle’s most loved cuisines. Bringing the two together on High Bridge felt like the best of both worlds.”
While simultaneously hearing many good reports and having no idea how this would pan out, my son Jack and I pitched up one Sunday afternoon a mixture of excitement and apprehension entwined.
One thing always guaranteed at Dabbawal is a warm, friendly welcome. This visit proved no exception as we were shown to an expansive corner table and soon kicking back with beers and poppadoms.
While Sunday afternoons may typically consist of lounging around with Super Sunday and the Sunday papers, or hacking our way round the region’s golf courses, Dabbawal was evidently a welcome point of difference. The dining area possessed a lovely, languid hum while aromas of Sunday lunch via the tandoor pervaded the air.
I kicked off with the Palak Patta Chaat, a dish I’ve enjoyed at Dabbawal before but which also worked as a prelude to a roast.
The batterfried spinach leaves arrived crisp and layered with sweet yoghurt and zingy tamarind. It’s a dish that captures the restaurant at its best – playful, textured, and distinctly Dabbawal.
Jack, meanwhile, opted for the Onion & Palak Bhajis, a stack of thinly sliced onions bound in spiced batter and fried-off to a golden crunch. He’s something of a bhaji connoisseur, and these earned an immediate nod of approval.
For the main event, diners have the choice of chicken tikka roast, lamb boti roast, roast salmon or the vegetarian roast vegetable bhuna. All roasts are served up with saffron mash, gunpowder roasted potatoes, seasonal vegetables, Yorkshire pudding and a choice of Rogan Josh gravy or Makhani Masala sauce.
I chose the chicken tikka roast, marinated in yoghurt and spices before being roasted off in the tandoor. The meat arrived succulent, with smoky edges set off exquisitely by the rich makhani sauce.
Jack’s lamb boti roast was equally impressive. Tender and boldly spiced, the lamb was perfectly suited to the concept, blending British tradition with the wondrous depth of Indian home cooking. The rogan josh gravy – which sat so nicely atop the saffron-infused mashed potato – was another welcome Indian inflection.
While desserts featuring sticky toffee pudding and apple crumble were mooted, we left totally replete reflecting upon what could be a new North East tradition.
There are few rituals more deeply woven into British culinary culture than the Sunday roast. Yet Dabbawal have found the confidence and craft to reimagine a classic. A perfect fusion of East meets West.
The Dabba Sunday Roast is served 12 noon – 4.30pm every Sunday. Two courses are available at £23.50 per person with three courses £28.50 per person. For more information, visit www.dabbawal.com