In many years of writing food reviews, one restaurant which consistently proves to be great is Low Fell's Eslington Villa.
Be it for a business lunch or social occasion, overnight stay or flying visit, this classy hotel restaurant delivers with much style and panache whilst the staff always pull out all the stops to ensure the best possible customer experiences.
Dark and ambient through the Winter and bright and airy in Summer, the conservatory dining area boasts a lovely, leisurely atmosphere whilst the Modern British/French cooking on offer showcases some real culinary pedigree.
After a relatively lazy Saturday afternoon, we dressed up accordingly and got a taxi across for what would be a meal to remember.
The team at Eslington Villa are a closely knit unit and are always on hand for a warm welcome, whilst returning visitors are greeted like long lost friends.
On arrival we first chose to drink in the atmosphere in the lounge with a quick aperitif whilst soaking up a cracking “golden oldies playlist featuring the Beatles, the Beach Boys et al.
We were then seated in a prized window table which boasted views across the hotel’s sundappled lawns and encroaching woodland.
Whilst the restaurant’s lunchtime offering is concise, their evening menu is much more extensive and has been carefully curated by Head Chef, Jamie Walsh a former North East Chef of the Year recipient who brings great flair and enthusiasm to his role.
Jamie’s was also a finalist on a Gordon Ramsay scholarship and has brought his expertise to a menu which is best described as a simple and honest approach to cooking with a few modern inflections.
We decided to put this to the test and ordered up a pair of stunning sea food starters. I chose the British Oysters spiked with fresh lemon, shallot vinegar and tabasco whilst my wife Lisa opted for the locally smoked salmon, embellished with blobs of feta, sweet peas and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.
After a suitable digestive interlude, our main courses arrived. Melt-in-the-mouth tender, Lisa’s beef featherblade was an absolute revelation dusted with a mustard and parsley crumb and paired with pomme puree and braised carrots.
I elected for the roast chicken in a white wine and garlic sauce with gourmet potato rosti, fresh leeks and Paris Brown mushrooms.
Demonstrably enjoying her meal, Lisa then polished off the classic crème brulee, burnt expertly with a supremely good texture. Yours truly settled for a very virtuous coffee as I’m still trying to lose a few pounds on a liquid-based diet!
Speaking of which, Eslington Villa has a farranging wine menu which has been carefully chosen by Thierry, the hotel’s super-friendly General Manager. Being a Frenchman and thereby something of an expert, each wine is neatly arranged by its character profile – floral and exotic, oaky and robust etc meaning you’re sure to find the perfect accompaniment to each course.
With two courses available for £24.99 and three for £28.99 we also both agreed that this was good value for the quality of the fayre on offer.
Tucked away in a nicely secluded spot in a leafy part of Low Fell, Eslington Villa might just be one of the area’s best kept secrets. Whilst popular with those “in the know, this is a venue deserving of much wider acclaim.
For more information, visit www.eslingtonvilla.co.uk