It’s hard to believe that Dabbawal arrived on the scene as early as 2008.
This much-loved Indian food gem has become such a part of the fabric of the city that it’s easy to forget how pioneering it was upon opening.
Launched with the guiding mission of bringing authentic, urban street food to Newcastle, Dabbawal has worked wonders, improving the standard of Indian cooking across the city while remaining as fresh and inventive 17 years later.
Its first venue on High Bridge, remains a metropolitan paean to Mumbai’s world-famous dabbawalas, spawning a second venue in Jesmond’s leafy suburbs.
Being a longstanding fan of the brand since inception (when I had dramatically more dark hairs), I jumped at the chance of reviewing a ‘Chef’s Surprise’ evening at Dabbawal Jesmond.
Set right beside West Jesmond Metro, its setting feels something of a masterstroke. Each metro whistling past creates and evening which feels ambient and atmospheric.
Outside, a corrugated steel veranda is suitably a la mode while inside, a bright open kitchen creates a sense of spectacle.
Inevitably then, there’s no hiding place. Fortunately, Dabbawal employs a team of highly-qualified, experienced chef’s adept at handling only the very best in local provenance.
This emphasis on quality and traditional cooking methods, means Dabbawal remains resolutely off food-delivery companies meaning it must be visited to be enjoyed.
But, is the food worth the visit? You bet.
Over the course of the evening, we would enjoy a smorgasbord of Indian street food which over the last 15+ years has put the restaurant on the map as an all-time classic in the eyes of the region’s foodies.
Settling in over a couple of icy cool Cobras, my son Jack and I enjoyed a mix of poppadom’s alongside a pre-starter cheesy stuffed mushroom which was spiced with precision.
Next up arrived a selection of kebabs – chicken, lamb chops, salmon fillet – cooked ‘3 ways’. This proved a trio of smoky perfection, comprising: spiced lamb chops with cous cous chaat, mango murg tikk and haryali salmon with dill and cucumber raita.
We weren’t the only ones enjoying each forkful with gusto as we observed a dining area pretty much full – no mean feat for a Thursday teatime.
What followed was a masterclass in Indian street food. First up, Hyderabadi Dum Gosht, a slow-cooked lamb curry that was rich, aromatic, and deeply satisfying.
Next came the Butter Chicken, a crowd-pleaser that managed to surprise. Unlike the overly sweet versions found in many curry houses, Dabbawal’s take was balanced and nuanced.
The Prawn Nilgiri offered a refreshing contrast. Cooked in a vibrant green coconut and coriander sauce, the prawns were plump and perfectly cooked, their natural sweetness enhanced by a lovely, herbaceous base.
Dabbawal has garnered a strong reputation amongst vegetarians and that was evident here. Dal Makhani was a creamy black lentil dish. Slow cooked overnight, the dal boasted a silky texture and the mellow, earthy flavours to boot.
This had been an evening of palate expansion and broadening one’s horizon, so I did something out of the ordinary: ordering dessert in an Indian restaurant.
This proved anything but an afterthought. The Gulab Jamun featured soft doughy spheres soaked in rose-scented syrup and served with vanilla ice cream. The Gajer Halwa, a North Indian carrot pudding, was a revelation—sweet, nutty, and delicately spiced. Finally, the Chocolate Tart, infused with warming spices, brought a contemporary twist to the lineup.
This much-loved Indian gem continues to spring a surprise.
For more information, visit https://dabbawal.com/about-dabbawal/