Foodies will rejoice at the opening of Lovage, Jesmond's chic new Mediterranean bistro specialising in locally sourced and foraged ingredients.
Lovage is a joint venture between Head Chef, Kleo Tabaku and his partner Lisa Hide, who is running front of house, they are realising their dream of opening their first restaurant together.
Albanian-born Kleo brings real culinary pedigree to the role after honing his craft in restaurants across Europe and more recently in the North East at flagship venues such as Jesmond Dene House and Wynyard Hall. Lisa meanwhile has given up her career at a local primary school to pour all of her energy and passion into creating a venue with a real community feel.
The duo have partnered with the award-winning Northumberland Pub Company who are also behind fellow foodie havens such as the Blackbird in Ponteland and the Northumberland Arms in Felton.
Situated in the former Sale Pepe site on Jesmond’s St George’s Terrace, Lovage boasts an ever-changing, seasonal menu showcasing the European flair sure to satisfy its swanky suburbanite clientele.
I had the pleasure of visiting with my girlfriend Rosie in only the second week of trading and encountered no such thing as teething problems.
The dining area is a stylish space bathed in sage green and neutral tones and punctuated by little nods to the menu’s horticultural inflections. The open-kitchen lends a real sporting spectacle (no hiding places here) whilst the ambient mood lighting creates the relaxed intimacy of a neighbourhood restaurant at its best.
Signposted at the head of the menu is the restaurant’s chosen ‘Wine of the Week’. We couldn’t refuse an excellent Finca Moncloa , an elegant, full-bodied Spanish red with fine oak and balsamic notes which we sipped on over bread and olives.
Next up came baby squid delicately coated in a chickpea & garden fennel pollen batter, served with aioli singing with fresh lemon zest. Rosie chose the wild foraged mushroom and asiago cheese arancini which was a real vegetarian treat.
The menu borrows much from Kleo’s childhood featuring dishes he grew up cooking however whilst it harks back to the past, the restaurant is decidedly modern. Provenance is top priority and the restaurant looks to use the freshest, most sustainable produce wherever possible.
One such dish was Rosie’s lovage pappardelle, scattered with morden blue and served with tenderstem broccoli and walnuts.
I chose the slow braised lamb shoulder atop a bed of jewelled couscous, a riot of colour and flavour accompanied by aubergine and a nicely spiced sumac yoghurt.
Throughout our meal, we were looked after superbly well by Lisa whose exemplary customer service mirrors the kitchen’s close attention-todetail on the plate.
On her advice, we ordered the tiramisu dusted with crushed green pistachios which tasted every bit as good as it looked and provided a memorable, two-spoon finale.
With a cosy, convivial feel, Lovage is sure to be a real hit heading into the winter months. Both lunch and dinner time dining is available, in addition to a dedicated Sunday lunch offering.
It may be early days, but this classy, plantinspired venue is already in bloom.