Leisure

Wines For The Christmas Table

Issue 18

Christmas means lots of different things to different people, but somewhere down the line there is going to be a celebratory meal or two and with it perhaps some wine. Over the next few weeks we will be asked umpteen times "What to drink with the Christmas Dinner?" so here are a few thoughts for the wines to have on Christmas day.

Thought number one is to drink what you enjoy. Certainly, some wines are particularly suited to certain dishes but if you don’t like that style of wine then don’t drink it go for something else that you do enjoy, even if the “experts” disagree!

The best way to start off the celebrations is with a glass of fizz. Champagne is still at the top of the list for celebrations and whilst it is delicious it can be expensive and is often quite heavy so perhaps an alternative that is lighter in style and lighter on the pocket is no bad thing. For the last few years the popularity of Prosecco has increased hugely and this is the ideal Christmas morning fizz if you don’t want the expense of Champagne light and fresh.

Smoked salmon is a very popular starter for the Christmas meal but it can be a tricky food to match with wine the oily richness can make a very dry white wine taste rather metallic. Try a richer white, perhaps a simple white Burgundy, Saint-Véran is great, or my own personal favourite, the delicious Sancerre “Grande Cuvée” from Domaine Jean-Paul Balland that takes Sancerre to the next level. If you’re feeling a shade adventurous go for an Alsace Gewürztraminer, these are wines with great character, full of rich, spicy flavours (some say lychees) and a wonderfully mouth-filling texture that is a fine match to the richness of the fish.

Turkey is still the number one bird for most of us and it provides a wide range of possible wine choices. As a general guide go for either a fairly rich white to stand up to all the trimmings or a lighter red. New World Chardonnay does a very good job for a white and the lovely, elegant wines of Fleurie in Beaujolais are ideal as a red.

Goose and duck are also seasonal favourites and here again it is the fatty richness of the bird that presents the challenge. I would always go for a red, but nothing too hefty. Pinot Noir is an excellent match the fresh acidity and elegant fruit cutting through the richness of the bird. Burgundy is the classic home of the Pinot Noir with great wines like Gevrey-Chambertin and Nuits-Saint-Georges, but again the New World Pinots are a brilliant match, especially those from New Zealand’s Central Otago, Australia and California.

If you are going for beef or game for the main event then look for a fuller style red. Claret from Bordeaux is great as are the rich reds of the Rhône Valley or maybe a fine Rioja from Spain. The New World is also great for these style, especially a big Aussie Shiraz.

To finish the meal off it tends to be Christmas Pudding, full of rich and spicy fruit that needs an equally robust wine to stand up to it. The sweet Muscat de Beaumes de Venise is great as is it’s red cousin from Banyuls, or how about a glass of intensely sweet Pedro Ximénez (PX), perfect with the pudding or a slice of Christmas cake.

Whatever you choose I hope you have a wonderful time!

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