By Michael Grahamslaw
As regular readers will know, I am partial to a glass or two of vino. I was therefore thrilled to read of the opening of Veeno Durham on the City’s Riverwalks.
The wine bar and kitchen captures the magic of Italy’s aperitivo culture, offering authentic Italian wines paired with cafésized plates and sharing platters.
Veeno champions wines from small-scale, independent producers while Spuntini boards are also imported from specialist Italian artisan suppliers.
Having visited Sicily this Summer, my wife Lisa and I were immediately transported to happier (and sunnier times).
Lisa, who has developed a palate sharper than mine and a healthy scepticism of anything described as “authentic” had reservations. But, I’m pleased to report, Veeno passed the test.
On a crisp Sunday afternoon, we ventured in, lured by the promise of wine, warmth and a menu that promises a taste of la dolce vita.
What followed was a meal that felt less like dining out and more like being welcomed into someone’s home-albeit one with impeccable taste and access to a top vineyard in Marsala.
Fittingly, the atmosphere was relaxed and inviting. Exposed brick, rustic wood, soft lighting, and a wine wall that could double as a passport to Sicily.
From the moment we arrived, we were looked after with genuine warmth-none more so than by our waiter Kieran, who struck the perfect balance between attentive and relaxed.
Friendly without being fussy, he guided us through the menu with the kind of quiet confidence that makes you trust every recommendation and we were certainly made to feel welcome during the final drops of my ever-extending ‘birthday month’.
Sounds of chatter and glass-clinking pervade the air while some hearty Italian aromas really got the digestive juices flowing.
Under starter’s orders, we began with the Grande Sharing Platter, a winning spread of cured meats, cheeses, olives and bruschetta.
It arrived like a Mediterranean care package-truffle salami, speck, Parmigiano, gorgonzola, and a balsamic glaze that really tied the flavours together.
Lisa declared the bruschetta the “best we’ve had since Summer.”
Following on, I opted for the Paccheri all’Arabiata-a bold, fiery tomato sauce clinging to chunky, al dente pasta. It packed just the right amount of heat to make me reach for my wine, incidentally, an excellent bottle of Grillo much like the ones we enjoyed on our travels.
Lisa chose the Tagliatelle ai Funghi, a silky swirl of pasta with earthy mushrooms and a whisper of garlic. She was quiet for a moment, which is always a good sign.
After a meal this good, dessert was always going to be on the cards. Lisa enjoyed the Cannoli Siciliani; crisp pastry shells filled with traditional sweet ricotta. The Tiramisu was textbook-light, boozy, and layered like a good novel.
In a city where dining options are increasingly polished, Veeno offers something relaxed and personal while its wine list will impress even the most seasoned oenophile.
It’s a hot ticket to Sicily – minus the passport.
For more information, visit
www.veenobars.com/veeno-durham