Leisure

Glory Days

Issue 119

Afternoons with the boy wonder come few and far between these days. So, sandwiched in between a triple header of Autumn golf and Deliver Me from Nowhere (the Bruce Springsteen movie for nonBoss fans), lunch was of pressing concern.

After a morning’s golf some serious ballast was in order, but we fancied something high-quality too. Newcastle’s Dobson & Parnell recently scooped the prestigious ‘Taste of the North East’ title in the North East England Tourism Awards earlier this year. Its brand of casual fine dining proved just the job.

It’s hard to believe the restaurant opened back in 2016, yet it remains a firm favourite among discerning foodies, thanks to its ability to keep a finger firmly on the Geordie culinary pulse. With sister venues Blackfriars and Hinnies also flying the flag for quality, it’s from a stable synonymous with excellence.

Inside, the dining room is one of the city’s most impressive. The building retains some of its Victorian period features with pendant lighting, exposed original brickwork and cast-iron columns combining with sage green leather and dark timber flooring. Perhaps, most striking of all is some dazzling white tiling evoking the grandeur of yesteryear.

On arrival, the restaurant had an ambient hum with our fellow Friday foodies enjoying an autumnal set menu, showcasing the best of the region’s seasonal produce.

Available Wednesday to Saturday, this offers good value with two courses for £23.50 or three for £29.50 at lunch.

Jack opened proceedings with the North Sea fishcake, a grand, golden disc set off by a silky pea purée and a tangy tartare sauce. This proved just the sort of comfort food we had been longing for.

For mains, he opted for steak frites – a brasserie classic done very well here, cooked to a perfect pink and served with a garlic-herb butter singing with flavour.

I began with the ginger and chilli spiced squash soup, a bowl of autumnal warmth punctuated by herb yoghurt and toasted seeds.

It was followed by breast of chicken, served with leek, bacon and a potato cassoulet, all bathed in a rich roasting juice gravy. This was seasonal dining at its best – robust, satisfying and artfully presented, and, you could say, all bad memories of the morning’s golf dissolved into nothing.

To wash this down, I chose a very agreeable bottle of Nero d’Avola, a Sicilian red that brought back memories of my recent holiday.

Desserts tempted, and while mindful of the cinema ahead (dozing off has been known), resistance proved futile. The sticky toffee pudding, paired with salted caramel and vanilla bean ice cream, was pure indulgence. Well, it was gentlemen’s afternoon, you must understand!

What sets Dobson & Parnell apart is its commitment to seasonality and quality. Head Chef, Kyle Bowman, continues to craft menus that celebrate local produce while embracing modern European influences.

For those seeking somewhere special this Christmas, look no further. Whether it’s a festive lunch with colleagues or a family gathering, this Quayside gem is hard to beat.

One of the enduring pleasures of dining out is discovering restaurants that not only maintain their standards but continually evolve – such is the case with Dobson and Parnell.

As Jack and I headed off to catch The Boss on the big screen, we both agreed: this was one of our own glory days.

For more information, visit www.dobsonandparnell.co.uk

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