A Winning Business Lunch

Few venues are as impressive as Wynyard Hall. Sir John Hall's stately pile is a testament to Victorian grandeur – lovingly transformed into one of the region's most impressive country hotel & spas.

Initially designed for the Marquess of Londonderry and officially opening in 1846, the hall incorporates French & Italian marble, Spanish mahogany, stone from the family quarry and exquisite stained glass windows.

Inside, the hotel is characterised by walls bathed in regal gold, high ceilings, grand pianos and ornate cornicing. Even the Northern Insight van spluttering into view couldn’t lower the tone as my son Jack and I pitched up for a business lunch fit for two kings.

The hotel’s “Wellington” restaurant has been doing brisk business of late with its Modern British offering and emphasis on ingredients fresh and seasonal. Of an evening, a sumptuous a la carte offering showcases real gastronomic prowess whilst through the day, the menu is lighter and a little more relaxed with a focus primarily on seafood and poultry dishes befitting of the springtime.

Arriving early, we were received warmly by the restaurant’s front-of-house manager and invited to sample a quick sharpener in the Wellington’s adjacent lounge. With van in tow, I swerved the booze in favour of a mineral water (misprint surely?!) whilst Jack enjoyed a light & easy Pinot Noir – perfectly suited to the weather outside with a feint bite of cold in the air.

We sat down in a lovely window table with views over the hotel’s extensive grounds. Despite the majesty of the venue, the dining area doesn’t feel stuffy, with a laid-back modern playlist creating a leisurely atmosphere.

I kicked off with the smoked mackerel paired with celery, kohlrabi and a horseradish emulsion. Kohlrabi is a vegetable I was previously unfamiliar with, which I’m told is a part of the cabbage family. Needless to say, it was fresh & super tasty which is unsurprising as Wynyard pride themselves on a true “plot-to-plate” experience with many ingredients actually grown on the estate. Now that is impressive.

Jack chose the roast lamb leg, removed from the bone and paired with Wye Valley asparagus, garden pies and Sinodun Hill – a delicate yet zesty goats cheese. Fresh mint, garden radish and cucumber ribbons fused to create a starter of much colour and interest.

Following up, Jack chose the guinea fowl – a nice gamey poultry – which was cooked to perfection. This sat on a bed of pearl spelt and spring vegetables in a delicious tarragon sauce. Brill – a white flaky fish of the turbot family – is not often found on the menu but is a real favourite of mine. Bread-crumbed delicately, this was perched on a pool of shellfish broth enlivened by dill and red seaweed.

With only three dishes to choose from, the hotel’s lunchtime menu is concise to say the least, yet this is in the diners’ favour as all are served with real attention to detail. A salted caramel and dark chocolate tart rounded off what had been an impeccable meal before the Northern Insight boys lurched back up the A19, bellies filled and in high spirits.

Clearly, with some real culinary pedigree at the helm, Wynyard continues to serve up food befitting of its glorious surroundings. Now is there a higher compliment than that?