The World Cup sure has a way of sharpening the appetite.
Sandwiched between early evening kickoffs and the perennial hope that this might finally be our year (England remain in the tournament at time of writing), my son Jack and I found ourselves in need of something more reliable than the English national team – a well-earned dinner before the football.
Arise, the newly relaunched Dobson & Parnell.
Regular readers will know this is a restaurant close to our hearts. Since opening in 2016, it has built a reputation as one of Newcastle’s best dining destinations.
Now, marking its tenth anniversary, it has undergone a bold transformation – not just a cosmetic refresh, but also a rethink of what Tyneside diners want today.
Arriving early evening, there was already a palpable buzz about the place, as we were warmly welcomed and shown to a cosy corner table.
The redesigned interior strikes a nice balance: exposed brick and dazzling white tiling remain, while an open kitchen and sociable layout bring a welcome energy and immediacy.
The new concept leans into flexibility: small plates and sharing dishes bring a relaxed flow to the experience – all of which suited us perfectly.
As is customary on ‘boy’s nights’ such as these, we opened with a full-blooded seafood trio. Oysters were first up: fresh, briny and neatly presented. Alongside, citrus-cured mackerel delivered bright, clean flavours while North Shields crab completed this pretty picture. A nice reminder of the quality of produce on our doorstep.
Dobson & Parnell continues to celebrate modern British cooking rooted in the North East, with an emphasis on seasonal ingredients and subtle global influences. This ethos was evident throughout.
For mains, we each went our separate ways. I opted for the soy-braised short rib which in a beef stock glaze, packed a wondrous depth of flavour.
Jack, meanwhile, chose the Northumbrian goat loin. As is his wont, the selection proved inspired, the tender meat falling apart on the fork and paired with bhaji, leg curry, curd and coriander.
These were supplemented these with a pair of sharing sides: thyme-roasted Jersey royals and buttered greens.
To drink, I selected a bottle of Grillo, its crisp Sicilian profile cutting neatly through the seafood and carrying me, momentarily, to thoughts of my forthcoming Italian escape. Jack also enjoyed a glass of excellent house red.
Between courses, conversation ebbed and flowed – football predictions, family updates, the usual good-natured back and forth. Around us, the restaurant ticked along at an easy rhythm, the open kitchen adding a quiet sense of theatre.
Dessert was tempting, though with kick-off looming, we exercised rare restraint. Still, as we finished our wine, it was clear that Dobson & Parnell has entered a compelling new phase.
If it aint broke don’t fix it, right? Wrong. Dobson & Parnell is a classy venue seemingly not content to rest on its laurels – and is now even better for it.
For more information, visit www.dobsonandparnell.co.uk