By Jack Grahamslaw.
After a packed autumn of sold-out sittings and a glitzy opening evening, bagging a table at Sanco was no mean feat.
The concept-driven, bottomless pizza outfit has been lighting up the city – figuratively and literally.
Tucked into The Forge on Newcastle’s Forth Banks, this is not your average pizzeria. Diners control the flow of food via a light on their table.
Twist, and the kitchen sends out fresh slices from their wood-fired oven. Flick it off, and the pizza pause begins. Priced at £21per head (kids eat for £10.50), it’s interactive, intuitive and rather good fun.
Being two avowed pizza aficionados, persistence would finally pay off. On a crisp November evening, Father and son pitched up in time for a pre-theatre feast before Dear England at the Theatre Royal.
With no menus to worry about, we got legged straight into a couple of Moretti Sale di Mare’s while surveying the décor.
The dining area retains its industrial aspect. Stylish and warmly lit, its gleaming ‘Gozney Napoli Elite’ pizza stands at its centrepiece. The pizzaioli in action creates a real sense of spectacle.
Sanco’s pizza chefs were sent to Naples to train under the sharpened eyes of the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (AVPN), ensuring every dough stretch and tomato smear honours the old country.
And it shows-each slice arrives in that unmistakable Neapolitan style: pillowy crusts, blistered edges, flame-cooked flavours and a generous heap of toppings.
Of course, the central premise invites you to try things you wouldn’t ordinarily. This became clear as the first slices were served: smashed zucchini on a butternut squash base.
We eyed each other tentatively across before wading in and were pleasantly surprised by the result. What followed was a full parade of pizzas, comprising everything from much-loved classics – Tuscan sausage, pecorino and red-onion – to new world favourites like the white-based ham and onion.
Slices arrived thick and fast which was a godsend given a steady stream of Tuesday night customers. Thankfully, a digestive interlude is always available at the flick of the switch if you fancy a breather or to catch up on some table talk.
After an exceptionally good salami and hot honey with finally tapped out with the standings, Michael 9, Jack 8. As I’m sure you’re wondering, Sanco’s current record stands at 30 slices, set by one true trencherman whose appetite deserves its own plaque.
The venture also marks a reunion between owner Paolo Franchi and manager Catherine Bellhouse, who first met 24 years ago at the Copthorne Hotel – just 400 metres from Sanco’s current home.
Their partnership brings warmth and polish to the experience, with Catherine’s team striking the balance between attentive and relaxed. Top marks to Scott and Lucy who looked after us superbly all evening.
Should you fancy something sweet, desserts are also available, though we abstained in favour of our curtain call.
As we left, totally replete, the light dimmed behind us – a beacon of a meal well enjoyed. Sanco effectively brings a slice of pizza heaven from Naples to Newcastle, and an experience that lingers long after the light’s gone out.
For more information, visit www.sancopizza.com