After a summer of eating out and around Newcastle following Britain's grand reopening of the leisure sector, my wife Lisa and I were keen to expand our culinary horizons to venues further afield.
Our first port of call was Wylam – the sleepy, Northumberland village put first on the map by railway pioneer George Stephenson and more recently by the ever popular brewery which bears its name.
On a sun soaked late September day, with very much a “last of the summer wine” feeling in the air, we took the train which is only a quaint, 15 minute journey from Newcastle Central Station. The village’s four pubs each have their own charms and identities – one of the best of which being the Ship Inn, a proper British gastropub serving fresh food, hearty and wholesome. Throughout lockdown, the local favourite continued to do brisk business with a much vaunted takeaway service, twice making headlines on BBC’s Look North in the process.
We’ve had the pleasure of visiting once before (pre-covid) with a sumptuous evening tapas menu in full swing yet this time would enjoy an equally exciting lunchtime menu comprising small plates, gourmet sandwiches, main dishes and puddings.
All of this is set against a backdrop which is cosy and characterful with a few nods to the railways of yesteryear. The pub also showcases a selection of the good stuff on the keg and cask, not to mention an extensive winelist which is way beyond typical gastropub fodder.
Clearly this is a venue with real culinary aspirations and it felt great to be back as we drank in the atmosphere after being greeted by the staff and pub cockapoo, Ruby.
Whilst looking over the menu, we snacked on a bowl of rosemary and parmesan popcorn which hinted at some of the inventive little touches lying in store. Following on, we enjoyed a selection of chipolata sausages glazed in marmalade and wholegrain mustard and haggis scotch eggs with Broon’ sauce. Classic posh pub grub with a flourish and stylishly presented on small plates. Tempted at first by the Northumbrian Croque Monsieur’, I opted for the steak ciabatta with caramelised red onion & mustard mayo, served with fries.
Lisa meanwhile followed in a similarly stodgy vein with the Ship’s black angus, topped off with smoked bacon, more caramelised red onions, mordon blue cheese and truffle mayo.
Also worth a mention was the Ship’s speciality picnic board for two, a grand sharing platter of rural cuisine including charcuterie, pate, terrine, scotch egg, a selection of cheeses, sourdough and butter. Just another quirk on an inventive menu displaying real culinary flair and championing the freshest ingredients.
For the finale, Lisa and I enjoyed a sharing portion of Annabel’s strawberries and set northumbrian cream with strawberry sorbet and basil garnish. A perfect way to round off an exceptional meal and indeed the Summer.
From this visit, it’s easy to see how the Ship Inn has carved out a fine local reputation however this is a venue deserving of wider acclaim. Not even a pandemic can blow this classy venue off course.