Terry Laybourne's 21 Hospitality Group has long been a benchmark of excellence within Newcastle. Now totalling six venues, the group offers quality and diversity for discerning diners across the city.
Whilst very familiar with ‘proper’ gastropub, The Broad Chare and buzzy Italian, Caffe Vivo it had been a little while since I’d visited the brand’s flagship site, 21.
21 – formerly Café 21 – of course refers to 21 Queen Street, Terry ‘s former Michelinstarred eatery which offered us our first window into fine dining just a few blocks away. Since then, the venue has relaxed its offering, moving to its new Trinity Gardens site in the mid-noughties and serving fresh, imaginative dishes in the modern bistro style. Being the 26th anniversary of Lisa’s 21st Birthday (no doubt she’ll edit this out) we decided that a return visit was in order.
Whilst within easy walking distance of Newcastle’s Quayside, Trinity Gardens is a trendy enclave of restaurants removed from the usual hustle and bustle. As a result, the venue retains an air of style and exclusivity which really evokes that special occasion feeling on arrival.
Inside, the reception is warm and welcoming. The venue has a friendly front of house team led by Nick Shottel – Ops Director and classy operator – who has been a part of the 21 family for nearly three decades.
Having arrived early, we were first invited to drink in the atmosphere in the restaurant’s bar area. This turned out to be great news as the bar boasts an incredible wine list with 15 wines available by the glass alone, alongside a selection of beers, cocktails and spirits.
Nicely settled in, we adjourned to the dining area. Cream leather chairs and white linen table tops create a simple décor which is punctuated by bright splashes of pattern and colour. It’s striking and sophisticated, yet not overly opulent – it’s the food which assumes centre stage.
Similarly, dishes at 21 eschew fussiness and instead champion big, bold flavours with respect for ingredients both fresh and seasonal. The restaurant offers a tempting early evening menu, served 5:30pm – 7pm and priced very reasonably at £23.50 for three courses.
Being Mrs G’s Birthday, we went á la carte and were soon staring at a sumptuous selection of starters. My daughter Holly – a French student – chose the traditional café green salad, done well here with chicory, pears, walnut and Roquefort in a luxuriant walnut oil dressing.
Lisa chose the wispy, smoked salmon with homemade soda bread – a real Terry Laybourne staple – whilst my son Jack opted for the roast sea scallops paired inventively with prawns, samphire and blood orange essence.
Yours truly chose the Lindisfarne oysters with spicy sausages, only a few drops of Tabasco away from being an exquisite starter. Now talk about awakening the palette!
We followed up with real aplomb, tucking into the Northumbrian venison with saltbaked beetroot and fresh asparagus, braised shoulder of beef with two celeries and the rack of lamb, lightly dusted with herbs and served with potato gratin and Jerusalem artichokes.
2017 saw the opening of the Fenwick food hall-based steakhouse, Porterhouse, which has seen acclaim for its Himalayan salt aged beef. Dry aged for up to 45 days (beyond conventional ageing) for superior taste and tenderness, this was something of a revelation for me and I was glad to find it on the menu again here. The 227g fillet really hit the mark, especially when served with French beans and a plump, roasted tomato.
This had been a truly superb meal but we couldn’t leave without sampling our favourite desserts – just small portions this time though. You see, 21 offer a Café Gourmand a novel, French-inspired minidessert served alongside a coffee of choice. Sometimes it pays to have a little bit of what you fancy.
It’s not often I get something right but I really excelled myself here! 21 proved the perfect choice for Lisa’s birthday and we all left with smiles on our faces. Terry Laybourne remains the king and 21 is the jewel in the crown.
